God Bless the USA---and Leprechauns are real!

Well, our incredible international adventure is now coming to an end.  We return home profoundly grateful for so many things:  friends, family, our wonderful country, our amazing world, and most of all, our kind and great God.

Thank you for viewing our blog as we experienced so many rich things.  A very special thanks to Pat Gilmore, Margaret's boss, who helped make this whole experience possible.

We can't wait to tell you all about our adventures in person.  And although we never saw a Leprechaun, clearly the hotels were expecting them.

Love, Margaret and Paul

 

Notre Dame vs. Navy in Dublin--Dueling Sisters

 

Everywhere we went in Ireland (except for Cape Clear) we ran into Americans here for the game; but as we got closer to Dublin, the concentration increased. The Navy–Notre Dame series has been played annually since 1914, making it the longest uninterrupted inter sectional series in college football.  The schools and student bodies hold each other in great respect.  The last Emerald Isle Classic, as the game has been dubbed, was played in 1996.  This time the game would be broadcast live in the US on CBS, and on other networks reaching 65 countries.  More Americans would be here in Dublin for this game than went to London for the 2012 Olympics.  It was estimated that the boost to Ireland's economy was over 100 million Euros.  

 

Technically, this was a "home" game for Navy, but the stands were dominated by Irish fans, as Notre Dame had billed and sold this event as "The Irish are coming home".  The stadium had been sold out for a year, and tickets were nearly impossible to obtain.  We had only gotten tickets because of our dear friend Jim Holmes and his colleague Jeff. Jim  has deep connections to ND.  Jeff is a Notre Dame graduate who was in the Navy after taking his degree.  It was Jeff who graciously arranged to get the tickets to Jim and then to us. 

 

Our group attending the game was of mixed loyalty.  2 were rooting for ND, 4 for Navy, and 2 were not rooting for anything except a good time.  Tricia wore a WW1 hat with "US Navy" script on the front.  Margaret wore her ND Irish hat, and dueling sisters was on!

 

Lisa, rooting for Navy, said to Tricia:  "We have to out-play them because we certainly cannot  out-cheer them".   In short, ND lived up to their number 24 ranking and dominated the game from the outset.  The final score was 50 to 10.  Nevertheless, a good time was had by all.  At the end of the game, the Irish team walked down the field to the Navy end and stood silently out of respect as the Navy band played their Alma mater.  We learned that Navy is the only team where ND stands with them as their Alma Mater is played at the end of a game.  Then Navy reciprocated, and as "love thee Notre Dame" filled the stadium, a large cheer erupted, and the field and stadium slowly emptied out.

 

On our cab ride home, we asked the cabbie if it was weird for him that an American football team would call themselves "the Irish", and in his charming accent he said "Not a'tall, everyone wants to be Irish!".

 

Michael Collins: Hero of the Republic

On leaving Cape Clear and making our way towards Dublin, we stopped at the place where Michael Collins was killed.   This year marked the 90th anniversary of his death.  We were lucky to be able to spend the night at the Imperial Hotel in Cork, where Collins stayed the night before his fateful drive and assassination. For those of you who don't know much about Michael Collins, he was the military commander of the IRA and was extremely important in the ultimate liberation of Ireland from Great Britain.  He was killed by his own people after he negotiated a strategic settlement with Britain that only included about 80 percent of Ireland.  Collins knew that Britain would never sign over 100% of Ireland, so he felt that it was better to obtain 80% and work on the remaining 20% over time, rather than have nothing.  Absolutists in his organization had a different view, one more of "all or nothing", and as a result felt that Collins had betrayed them.  As he lay dying, his final words were "Forgive them!". 

Cape Clear: History and wedding bells

 

Leaving Kilarney, we wound our way down south, passing more castles and the ruins of castles.  Our goal was Cape Clear, a small island (3 miles by 1 &1/2 miles) off the far southern coast of Ireland, where Margaret's ancestors came from and where the O' Driscolls still live.  To get there, we first had to go to a small-port fishing village, Baltimore.  Baltimore held a small harbor, from which several ferries plied their way to islands close in to the coast.  This was clearly an operation for commerce and not tourism--you could drive your vehicle right onto the jetty and right next to the ferry boats, which were in the mid-fifty foot range.   To get to Cape Clear, we would need to ride the ferry for about 45 minutes.  

 

Once our ferry docked, Colleen, who had been to the island before to visit the relatives, recognized one of the owners of the boat as Patrick O'Driscoll.  Patrick said he knew we were coming, as word had gotten around the island (population 120).  He also already knew that several couples would be renewing their vows at the small church--he even knew the time of the celebration at the church.  We boarded the ferry with a considerable amount of luggage.  The sea was heaving slightly as we rounded the point beyond the natural harbor, and the swells increased as we got under way past the point.  Cape Clear lay dead ahead.  The wind was brisk, but the rain, which threatened, held off.   Once in the open sea, the ferry moved head-on into the swells, and soon began to pitch.  Several of us stood at the side of the quarterdeck, facing the oncoming waves.  The bow rose and fell,  and a few times we took a small amount of water through the anchor ports.  Spray crested above the bow, dousing George and Lisa as they stood on the port side of the quarterdeck.  As we bore into the island, the swells began to ease.  As we came in close to the cliffs leading into North Harbor, we saw a small creek pouring off the cliff, directly into the sea.  This was the island that Margaret's dad had talked so much about. 

 

We docked at the small harbor and were met by Sheila Cadogan, married to Michael John, a distant relation to Margaret. Mary, the driver of the only taxi on the island, was waiting to take us to the two cottages where we were staying---Joe O' Driscoll's, who lives in Monterrey and graciously offered his cottage to us, and Sheila's house, just across the road. The roads are very narrow and only one car can pass at a time. If another car comes, one must back up and find a way for the other to pass. 

 

After we dropped our luggage, Mary drove us back to North Harbor to eat dinner at the restaurant next to the jetty.  This is restaurant, general store, bakery, and we speculate also a bait shop--all in one.  We had a great time afterwards drinking wine and visiting in Joe Driscoll's wonderful living room.  The next day, we were picked up at noon and went back down the road to the little church.  A priest was coming over from the mainland to say the mass and renewal of vows.   As you know from reading earlier, this is 25 years of marriage for us.  We joined Paul and Colleen, along with George and Lisa, in this renewal---in the church where Margaret's ancestors worshipped in past centuries. We had about 12 folks from the Island who came to the wedding vow renewal. They did not know us, but were happy for us to return home and celebrate this event on their Island. We were so touched that they would come even though they did not actually know us.  The priest was challenged, as he usually celebrated mass in "the Irish"--he kept having to refer to his English liturgy book. 

 

After the mass, we invited all present, which included a few of the islanders, back to Joe Driscoll's house and had a meal.  Sheila had prepared some delicious homemade items for us to share.  It was so fun to visit with our guests. They are very difficult to understand, but the charm makes up for challenges in the communication. The warmth, the smiles, the love was so apparent in the Cape people. We wondered if the song "when Irish eyes are smiling they are sure to steal your heart away" was inspired here on this tiny island. 

 

The next day we boarded the ferry and said goodbye to Cape Clear, but we knew that we were forever changed and will always have Cape Clear and her people in our hearts.

"Why have a dog and bark yourself?": the Irish charm begins.

We met our family at the Shannon airport and boarded a luxury bus. Our driver is Kevin and he a charming Irishman and an excellent driver.

The members of the group are ----

-Lisa, our beautiful sister in love, married to Margaret's brother George----we got so lucky that she said yes to George. Lisa planned almost all of the trip with the help of Tricia (Margaret's other sister)

-George, Margaret's brother, an adventurous guy who has the best laugh--- hearty, joyful, and so engaging that all of us work to tell jokes just to hear him laugh.

-Sam, our wonderful niece, who is well travelled, and quite committed to documenting the journey and the fun. She is giving all of us a gift by posting pictures and keeping family and friends updated via Facebook.

-Tricia, Margaret's sister.  Not only did Tricia help to plan the trip, but she also brought cocktails and hors d' ouvres for the bus.....we love that girl!! Although Lisa and Tricia kept us updated as the trip was being planned, most of us filed the e-mails and opted for more of a surprise trip in Ireland. The element of surprise in terms of the events of the day make it extra fun. 

-Colleen, Margaret's other sister---very fun, and a blast to have as a traveling partner.

-Paul, Colleen's husband, a musician, and simply a great guy.

We couldn't think of a better way to start the trip than to head to a small village where "The Quiet Man" was filmed. We went into Cohan pub and had a pint, while we quoted lines from the movie.

It was fun to sit on the famous bridge where John Wayne sat in the movie. The countryside is green and so picturesque.  It is very obvious why they call it The Emerald Isle.  We checked into our hotel in Galway, went to an "off license" store, made a few strategic purchases, and had happy hour in Colleen's room.  We had dinner in a pub across the street.  The pub is just how you imagine, with Irish music, fish and chips, and Guinness.  Lisa's dream was to ride the famous Conemara horses on the Irish sea shore.  We had great weather for our ride, which included a brisk trot and canter through the green fields right next to the beach, where the cows just gave us a quick look.  We also rode right into the sea to about a foot deep.  The views were spectacular out to sea and back inland towards the mountains. 

Ireland is known for its castles, and they are spectacular.  We saw the Killarney castle, the Blarney castle, and the Kilkenny castle, to name a few.   All along the way, there were other castles, some in significant disrepair or perhaps not as grand, but certainly ones that gave evidence that at one time these landmark buildings stood out and were shelter to important people. 

 Thanks to Kevin our driver, he recommended that we substitute the Dingle peninsula for the Ring of Kerry.  Kevin said that in the 20 years he's been driving, he never tires of this place and feels that it is one of the most beautiful areas of Ireland.  He was right.  One fun thing about the town of Dingle is a pub called Dick Mack's.  It is both a small pub and a leather repair shop, so Kevin joked that you could have a pint and get your shoes fixed at the same time.  It turns out that the room is so small that you actually can sit on a bench opposite the bar and simply raise your foot onto the workbench.  It is a must see in Dingle. 

What would a trip to Ireland be without visiting the Jameson distillery?  Sammy became an official Jameson whiskey taster.  This is extra funny because she doesn't drink.

The country is beautiful, no doubt, but the true treasure of Ireland are its people.  They were charming and welcoming wherever we went, and we loved the expressions they used when they spoke.  A few examples (you have to imagine with an Irish accent) :  "I'm grand"  ,  "of course you can", "it was meltin' hot",

"why have a dog and bark yourself?". 

Next stop: Cape Clear---the small island (population 120) off the southern tip of Ireland where Margaret's ancestors were born.

The Lake District got even better!

We thought we were done in the Lake District as we left Keswick  heading to Manchester.  Our route would take us out of the Lake District heading south.  We decided to stop in Windemere to have lunch as a book Margaret bought on great restaurants in Cumbria had many listings for Windemere. We picked the restaurant The Samling.  We picked it for two reasons:  one, because the book led us to believe  it was traditional English cuisine with elegance and flair, and secondly, because we always have fun when we have a specific destination...it makes for a fun adventure. 
We gave Gwendolyn the postal code to calculate our route.   The main route through the Lake District is curvy, winds along the lakeshore, and is vary narrow in spots.  When we got to where Gwendolyn said we should turn, we didn't even see a street to turn on.   We later realized that you had to know exactly where you were going or you would miss it.  We went to the lakeside  information center to ask where The Samling could be found.  We got directions leading back, and found a discreet stone marking sign and a narrow gate to a drive  leading up the hill. 
Little did we know where we were heading.  We climbed up the hill onto an estate overlooking the lake.  We pulled into the roundabout in front of the grand house and parked behind a beautiful black Range Rover.   Its occupants were being greeted by the quintessential English host.  Margaret got out of the car and asked  the gentleman if this was where we could have lunch.  He assured us it was.  We were led into a drawing room where we were invited to wait and have a beverage.  We then entered a charming dining room, where we were seated at a lakeview table next to a beautiful fireplace. 
Thomas was our waiter.  He was a young, handsome Englishman and obviously very proud to be in service at this restaurant which, we discovered, was connected to a boutique hotel.   He attended to our table with precision, much as we would expect from watching Downton Abbey.  The service and the meal were world-class.  It seems that we had stumbled upon a gem.  In fact, we overhead that William and Kate might be coming to stay.  
Our Samling experience was a fitting end to our charming time in the Lake District.

"For nature then to me was all in all"---Wordsworth, Lake District, England

"Come forth into the light of things, let Nature be your teacher". ---Wordsworth.   

There are two main reasons people come to the Lake District in England:  one, to walk where the Romantic poets (Wordsworth, Coleridge, Southey) walked, and experience the land that inspired them; and the second reason is to just plain walk!  

Most people that we have met in the |Lake District are here to do the latter.  There is a famous Lakes writer named Albert Wainwright who wrote a series of books about walking in the different areas of the Lakes.  The walking trails are charming, but somewhat mysterious to navigate.  One excerpt reads:  "No Keswick holiday is consummated without a visit to Catbells.  This favorite walk is delightful.  The path leaves the Newlands Road out of Portinscale 25 yards beyond the lane to Nickal End, where a gap in the bush hedge on the left admits to a wood.  The route is not quite clear until the private road to Lingholm is reached, but thereafter is signposted".  Good luck with that one!  Now that you are lost in the wood somewhere beyond Nickal End, may you find your way back without incident.  We did do the walk up to Catbells, and it is lovely indeed.    To the west of Catbells is the valley where Beatrix Potter lived.  It is pastoral and idyllic.  

We are staying on a working farm (Sandhill Farm) in Bassenthwaite, on the Mirehouse estate.  It is charming, and our host Helen has been great.  We have been learning the protocol of how to walk across the land on the public footpaths, which are marked somewhat haphazardly.    One of the small peaks near the farm is named Dodd Summit---we've included a picture here to give you an idea of the landscape.  It was great to just leave the farm and climb up this peak, which has a striking view of the town of Keswick, Derwentwater (a lake) and the surrounding peaks.  Unfortunately, pictures can only convey the obvious---not the sensation of being in this landscape.  It is absolutely charming, almost like something out of a fairytale. 

Yesterday we went to Dove Cottage in Grasmere--Wordsworth home for about 8 years, during which he wrote much of his best poetry.  The museum was fantastic.  For us, part of this trip has been experiencing the different foods.   We have had some excellent meals here, including one last night (for my 50th birthday) at Purdey's, on the Langdale Estate in Great Langdale.  Getting there via a recommended shortcut from Grasmere was a driving adventure, over an extremely narrow mountain road called Red Banks, on which we met a bus and were coached though the meeting between the rock walls by the bus driver, who was patient with us.  Also coaching us was Gwendolyn, our navigation system embodiment, fondly named by Paul, whose voice is soothingly similar to an English nanny.    Today we climbed up Carl's End, a fell (mountain) near the farm.  Up we went, almost into the low clouds,  until we elected to retreat just below the summit as the wind picked up and a white out threatened.  It is easy to see, after being here, why Wordsworth, Coleridge, and DeQuincy, among others, were so moved and inspired by the landscape.   As you walk, each freshening rain brings forth a new Eden.  It is a very special place, one deserving of its association with The Romantics. 

Tomorrow we  begin our journey to the Emerald Isle for the next chapter in this incredible adventure.  We will surely have a spot in our hearts for the Lake District and be grateful for the inspiration it has given to so many, ourselves included.

" I listened, motionless and still; And, as I mounted up the hill, The music in my heart I bore, Long after it was heard no more" ---Wordsworth