Leaving Kilarney, we wound our way down south, passing more castles and the ruins of castles. Our goal was Cape Clear, a small island (3 miles by 1 &1/2 miles) off the far southern coast of Ireland, where Margaret's ancestors came from and where the O' Driscolls still live. To get there, we first had to go to a small-port fishing village, Baltimore. Baltimore held a small harbor, from which several ferries plied their way to islands close in to the coast. This was clearly an operation for commerce and not tourism--you could drive your vehicle right onto the jetty and right next to the ferry boats, which were in the mid-fifty foot range. To get to Cape Clear, we would need to ride the ferry for about 45 minutes.
Once our ferry docked, Colleen, who had been to the island before to visit the relatives, recognized one of the owners of the boat as Patrick O'Driscoll. Patrick said he knew we were coming, as word had gotten around the island (population 120). He also already knew that several couples would be renewing their vows at the small church--he even knew the time of the celebration at the church. We boarded the ferry with a considerable amount of luggage. The sea was heaving slightly as we rounded the point beyond the natural harbor, and the swells increased as we got under way past the point. Cape Clear lay dead ahead. The wind was brisk, but the rain, which threatened, held off. Once in the open sea, the ferry moved head-on into the swells, and soon began to pitch. Several of us stood at the side of the quarterdeck, facing the oncoming waves. The bow rose and fell, and a few times we took a small amount of water through the anchor ports. Spray crested above the bow, dousing George and Lisa as they stood on the port side of the quarterdeck. As we bore into the island, the swells began to ease. As we came in close to the cliffs leading into North Harbor, we saw a small creek pouring off the cliff, directly into the sea. This was the island that Margaret's dad had talked so much about.
We docked at the small harbor and were met by Sheila Cadogan, married to Michael John, a distant relation to Margaret. Mary, the driver of the only taxi on the island, was waiting to take us to the two cottages where we were staying---Joe O' Driscoll's, who lives in Monterrey and graciously offered his cottage to us, and Sheila's house, just across the road. The roads are very narrow and only one car can pass at a time. If another car comes, one must back up and find a way for the other to pass.
After we dropped our luggage, Mary drove us back to North Harbor to eat dinner at the restaurant next to the jetty. This is restaurant, general store, bakery, and we speculate also a bait shop--all in one. We had a great time afterwards drinking wine and visiting in Joe Driscoll's wonderful living room. The next day, we were picked up at noon and went back down the road to the little church. A priest was coming over from the mainland to say the mass and renewal of vows. As you know from reading earlier, this is 25 years of marriage for us. We joined Paul and Colleen, along with George and Lisa, in this renewal---in the church where Margaret's ancestors worshipped in past centuries. We had about 12 folks from the Island who came to the wedding vow renewal. They did not know us, but were happy for us to return home and celebrate this event on their Island. We were so touched that they would come even though they did not actually know us. The priest was challenged, as he usually celebrated mass in "the Irish"--he kept having to refer to his English liturgy book.
After the mass, we invited all present, which included a few of the islanders, back to Joe Driscoll's house and had a meal. Sheila had prepared some delicious homemade items for us to share. It was so fun to visit with our guests. They are very difficult to understand, but the charm makes up for challenges in the communication. The warmth, the smiles, the love was so apparent in the Cape people. We wondered if the song "when Irish eyes are smiling they are sure to steal your heart away" was inspired here on this tiny island.
The next day we boarded the ferry and said goodbye to Cape Clear, but we knew that we were forever changed and will always have Cape Clear and her people in our hearts.
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